Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts

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* FOREWORD* *CONTENTS*



Morning begins before sunrise in India. I still remember, from my childhood in lush, tropical Kerala in southwestern India, the sounds of a large joint-family household coming alive before daybreak. I could hear the clatter of brass pots and copper pans being washed and the rhythmic creak of the granite grinding stone pureeing coconut and green chilies for fresh chutney. Temple bells rang in the distance, announcing predawn prayers. The fragrance from the wood-burning stoves and the aroma of fresh decoction coffee permeated the entire house. Soon, the sizzle of dosa batter falling on the hot griddle would entice everyone to get up and get ready for breakfast.

Ammini Ramachandran
From the Introduction


About the Recipes

Most of the recipes in this book were handed down from one generation to the next in my own extended family, and some of them are special gifts from relatives. I have purposely limited myself to a selection of family recipes here, and to the geographical, cultural, and historical context of this food, so as to present the subject in its proper perspective. With most recipes, I have given Western substitutes, following the traditional recipe.

In many cases, these everyday dishes have a very long history. As recipes tell only part of the story of this cuisine, I have included notes on the historical facts and anecdotes associated with several of them. Ancient Indian literature mentions certain recipes as far back as the fifth century AD. Several of the old recipes are associated with regional festivals, and some are traditionally prepared as offerings at famous temples.

Back home, we are taught to cultivate a sense of smell and color, and we try to accomplish perfection in cooking through exploration. Almost every ingredient is measured only by hand—a handful, a little, a pinch, and so on. Cooking is an expression of the cook’s personal tastes and preferences. The joy of it is in experimenting. The delight in cooking is not necessarily derived from the end product alone, but from the endless possibilities available for flavoring a dish. I urge you to use these recipes for ideas and suggestions. Improvise, but never let a cookbook order you around.

Ammini Ramachandran